Pharrell Williams took center stage at Louis Vuitton’s Fall/Winter 2024 menswear show in Paris on January 16th, showcasing his sophomore collection for the iconic French fashion house. Drawing inspiration from American workwear and Western aesthetics, Williams’ vision brought a rugged yet refined Americana spirit to LV’s signature tailoring and polish.
A Star-Studded Front Row
The front row was packed with A-listers eager for a first look at Williams’ new collection. Bradley Cooper, Carey Mulligan, Pusha T, and Andrew Scott were just a few of the big names in attendance.
|Cooper starred opposite Mulligan in the 2023 film Maestro and was likely there to support his co-star.
|Mulligan looked chic in head-to-toe LV, reuniting with Cooper for the show.
|The rapper has been a longtime friend and collaborator of Williams.
|Known for Fleabag and Sherlock, Scott brought some British star power.
The buzzing atmosphere was filled with anticipation for Williams’ hotly anticipated new looks.
Bringing the Wild West to Paris
As models took to the runway, LV’s atelier transitioned into a moody world inspired by the American West. The collection drew heavily from Western workwear, with touches of Americana through quilted jackets, cowboy hats and boots. Rugged leather pieces and outerwear with shearling linings evoked the outdoors.
There were also nods to Native American culture, including beaded details and fringed accessories. Some models wore single feather headdresses or had braids reminiscent of Native hairstyles. This sparked some debate on cultural appropriation, though Williams stated his inspirations came from appreciating the artistry and craftsmanship of these cultures rather than copying sacred symbols.
|Fringed leather jackets
|Evoked Western cowboys and Native American aesthetics.
|Rugged Americana workwear pieces.
|Cowboy hats and boots
|Iconic Western gear.
|Warm outerwear suited for the outdoors.
|Controversial nod to Native American culture.
While assertive, there was also subtle sophistication. Clean lines, expert construction and attention to fabric and texture elevated the everyday pieces with LV’s signature sheen.
“I wanted to show that you can take rugged pieces and embed that with luxury,” Williams said post-show.
His collection did just that – seamlessly fusing French refinement with rugged American sensibilities. Many also praised Williams’ reimagining of menswear codes through the playful integration of Western tropes into traditionally formal wardrobe basics like suits.
There was strong positive feedback from the fashion industry and buyers. Louis Vuitton is poised to drive menswear trends, and this collection’s balance between ease and polish makes the garments desirable yet wearable.
A Musical Showcase
In an only-at-LV moment, Williams used the runway to debut new music. The multi-hyphenate icon surprised the audience by spinning unreleased tracks during the show including a collaboration with Miley Cyrus titled “Doctor.”
|Unreleased Pharrell tracks
|Williams sampled his latest unheard music.
|“Doctor” with Miley Cyrus
|A previously unheard Cyrus collab astonished guests when it came over the speakers.
The Cyrus song had been rumored but never publicly heard until now. Fans were speculating online that this buzzy stunt hints to more new music from Williams this year.
What Critics Are Saying
- Vogue: “Pharrell Williams takes LV out West”
- The New York Sun: “Pharrell’s take on Louis Vuitton gets worse”
- The Daily Mail: “From Cowboy to Louis Vuitton Cowboy”
Reactions were mixed, with some critics feeling the Western concept was an odd departure for the heritage Paris fashion house. However, most reviews praised the collection’s spirited reimaging of American classics through an LV lens.
What Happens Next?
The FW24 collection will arrive in Louis Vuitton stores this summer, likely June. Prices are not yet announced but will be on the higher end typical of LV. As Creative Director, Williams will also launch an advertising campaign showcasing his Western-inspired designs.
The hype Williams has brought to the label along with this collection’s strong initial response suggest it will perform well commercially. His FW24 runway more than ever cemented his role as one of fashion’s most watched creatives right now. What kind of Americana magic might he conjure up next for LV? The industry is on the edge of its seat waiting to see.
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